Credit: Holly Simpson
The Old George is a gorgeous pub on Bethnal Green Road, lovingly restored last year. This month a new restaurant opened on its upper floor. High ceilings, long mirrors and winding architecture give the rooms a sense of space, but the candle-lit tables and subtle antique lighting keep your eyes from roaming over the eclectic décor.
The menu promises pub fare reimagined with seasonal British food. “Reimagined” is an insult; it is recreated from scratch (as much as possible is made in-house).
The starter my friend had, ox heart with roasted peppers, Asian cucumber, spring onions, spiced yoghurt and flatbread, unwound like a stir-fry in slow motion. My smoked cod’s roe on chicory was full of flavour, although the Dijon vinaigrette over-emphasised the bitter notes.
The portions are generous – three courses is a serious task. I opted for braised beef, bacon and onion macaroni for my main, which was overwhelmingly rich. The depth of flavour was excellent, though I would have preferred it a tad chewier to eat it for longer. The lemon-braised pork was exceedingly tender. Served in a bun with perfect chips, it was closer to the promised pub fare but equally well done.
Dessert – a vanilla, orange blossom and ginger cheesecake – was superb; delightfully light, complementing the delicate flavours. For indulgents, the blood orange chocolate fondant offers a richer option.
As we ate, the quiz begun around us. It was, the host said, “motherf*cking awesome.” A whole meal for £20, there’s no reason not to sample this local delight.
