Up to the hype? We try Hackney’s hottest food spots

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Image of Forno restaurant in Hackney
Part bakery, part deli, part pasta factory, Forno was a hit with our reporters

From succulent sandwiches to perfect pastries, Hackney residents have perfected the art of a foody Saturday out.

Following the news that local bakery The Dusty Knuckle has been voted one of Britain’s best at the 2024 ‘Bakers’ Dozen’ award, we set out on the ultimate tour to see whether Hackney’s most famous food spots live up to the hype.  

The Dusty Knuckle – @thedustyknuckle

Image of woman smiling with a sandwich
Sampling the famous focaccia sandwich (Credit: Molly Bowcott)

A queue of Carhartt-wearing and Samba-sporting Hackney locals are already out the door when we arrive at our first spot. The Dusty Knuckle is famous for its moreish sandwiches and fab bakery. The queue moves quickly, and the busy Saturday service is clearly a well-oiled machine. One of the sandwiches, the beef birria, is already sold out. 

The sandwich menu changes daily, and fillings are often unexpected and adventurous. There are also breakfast options like granola and yoghurt, but why would you even bother when the sandwiches look this delicious? We go for the Aubergine sandwich – packed full with mint yoghurt, tahini and crispy sweetcorn. It was a 10/10, and dare I say worth the steep £11 price tag. 

Not only is The Dusty Knuckle a great lunch spot, but it also provides a community training programme for those facing significant barriers to employment, so that may persuade you to break the bank in supporting this business.  

Address: Abbot Street, Dalston, E8 3DP 

Emerald Eats – @emerald_eats_

Broadway Market is buzzing with people. Pubs and cafes that line the streets are equally packed, and some people are even on the Aperol Spritz’s at 2pm – the above 10 degrees temperature is making us feel like we’re in the Mediterranean.  

The busiest stall by far is Emerald Eats, unsurprising as it has recently gone viral on social media.  

Emerald Eats is as successful as it is because of its uniqueness, but also its simplicity. The fried chicken sandwich may be humbler than some of the combinations offered at our first pit stop, The Dusty Knuckle, but the choice of condiments, fillings and bread makes it a treat. For those who don’t know, the chicken baguette (priced at £8) is an Irish staple, especially as some post-pub grub. You can choose from an array of fillings and sauces.  

Just as popular are their cheesy curry chips, for £7, and spice bags (salt and chilli coated chicken, chips and peppers) for £7.50. Both would undoubtedly be the perfect hangover cure.  

Address: Broadway Market, London Fields, E8 4PH  

World Famous Gordos, pizza by the slice – @worldfamousgordos

woman holding very large slice of pizza
Slices the size of your face at Gordos (credit: Ruth Lucas)

Next up on our whistle-stop tour is World Famous Gordos in Netil Market. This sells pizza by the slice, NYC style. The slices are huge and reasonably priced, between £3-4. 

We go for the NY slice – a classic margherita, which we douse in parmesan and mixed herbs. We’re not sure why this is world famous, because it tastes to us like a pizza you could get from your school canteen. The large slice of pizza arrives lukewarm, and strangely has a sprinkling of sesame seeds on its crust. 

We don’t want to jump the gun with our less-than-glowing review, however. Since we arrived at 3pm, it is possible that we came slightly too late in the day to experience the true goodness of the slices. What’s more, we only gave one of the flavours a taste. The ‘Chef’s Special’ may have dazzled our tastebuds in a way the margherita did not. 

Our experience would suggest that there may be better spots for pizza in London, but if you’re looking to fix a craving without going for a whole pizza this would be a good option. Otherwise, it’s nothing to write home about. 

Address: Unit C, 13-23 Westgate Street, E8 3RL  

Forno – @forno.london

It’s very Hackney to have so many of its famous spots in random warehouses and under railway arches – and our last stop of the day, Forno, is no exception. We felt the doughy delights of our tour needed to be washed down with a coffee. The strong caffeine hit awoke us from our food coma and the latte art was, of course, to perfection.  

Part bakery, part deli and part pasta factory, it’s no surprise to find Forno’s shelves lined with aesthetically pleasing cans of anchovies, pasta sauces and butter beans. 

Unfortunately for us, the TikTok famous Maritozzi – Italian cream-filled brioche buns – were sold out by the time our whistle-stop tour landed us in their bakery. We definitely want to return to this spot soon to give these raved-about delicacies a try. The Maritozzi would have been the perfect sweet treat to round off our tasting tour.  

From other people’s reviews, these pastries are the jewel in Forno’s crown.  

Address: 322 Andrews Road, E8 4PR  

Further recommendations… 

As lowly student journalists we couldn’t break the bank with our whistle-stop tour. Here are some more places we’d recommend trying, all of which can be found in Netil Market… 

Willy’s Pies 

Invested in by football legend Ian Wright, Willy’s Pies serves a Hackney-hipster rebrand of the British classic. According to the website, their “hard pressed proper pies” includes flavours of beef shin, pancetta and red wine, and pork, fennel and oregano. A pie will cost you £7, which we reckon isn’t too bad for artisanal prices. 

Sugo 82 

A family-run Italian business, Sugo 82 offers fresh pasta, crispy arancini and homemade tiramisu at their market stall. From mushroom and truffle gnocchi to a slow-cooked pork ragu, the dishes on offer looked mouth-watering. If we hadn’t filled ourselves up with the goodies from The Dusty Knuckles and Gordos pizza, we certainly would have paid for a bowl of pasta.  

Wingnut Wines 

Nestled in the corner of the market, this small bar offers a selection of natural wines. The menu changes regularly and ‘Thirsty Thursday’ events are held every week, offering wine-tasting and nibbles to an exclusive crowd of eight people (booking required). Wingnut Wines looks like a great place to stop for a drink after an afternoon of food tasting. 

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