The black stuff, pints of plain, or just good old Guinness: whatever you call it, the ruby porter first brewed in 1759 is a staple of St. Patrick’s Day. Post-pandemic, its popularity has surged. Sales grew 30 per cent in the second half of last year, while one in every ten London pints is now a Guinness.
The reason, it has been hypothesised, is that punters are intrigued by the many steps involved in pouring a perfect Guinness, and the subsequent unpredictability of its standard. Online influencers like Shit London Guinness (@shitlondonguinness) have racked up thousands of likes and launched merchandise by exposing some of the city’s shoddiest pours. When The Guinness Guru praised Mayfair’s Guinea Grill, sales went up 78 per cent.
Among the factors which make Guinness such a volatile beast are the varying temperatures, the old vs new glass debate, and just how long the bartenders wait before starting the second pour. Not all pints are equal, and the Hackney Post has gone searching around the borough for the best five.
Sláinte.
- Howl at the Moon, Hoxton
The Howl is an independent pub which is arguably the heart of Hoxton Street. The boozer’s status as a top venue was cemented in 2013 after it was the setting of Arctic Monkeys music video Why’d You Only Call Me When You’re High.
The Irish theme is unmistakably presented when you step in, with toucan posters and tricolours aplenty, and a clover replacing the ‘O’ in Howl on the neon light behind the bar. You can tell they put more effort in than your average pub, with a dedicated harp-shaped tap and bartenders waiting a good length of time for the second pour. Good cream on the head, but the taste doesn’t quite match up to others on this list. I think it’s largely down to the temperature being too cool, or maybe it’s just those pesky new-style glasses.
Don’t count it out, because it’s a lively and welcoming pub which properly let its pints settle, but you can tell it’s not perfect. You’re bound to have a good time here no matter the day of the week, but your pint of Guinness may leave something to be desired.
Price: £5.00
Rating: 7/10
- The Three Compasses, Dalston
This snug, homely taphouse lays claim to the best burger in east London, but for Guinness it narrows that zone down to the best in Dalston. The Three Compasses is a lovely spot which feels very Dalston – the men’s bathroom has graffiti, stickers and a metal trough, but an incongruous chandelier overhead. It’s a place where you can have a chat and get along with whoever, which is pretty yet unpretentious. Every wall has a couple of old Guinness posters, so you know the staff pride themselves on their pour.
There were one or two bubbles in the head, and they use a normal tap rather than anything especially Guinness branded. A lovely cream to the pint, but The Three Compasses had the shortest wait time between the pours – maybe one minute at most. Like far too many London pints, it was just a bit too cold to hit the spot. Nevertheless, it is in the upper echelons of the borough, with a taste far superior to a regular pub.
If you’re looking for a good meal alongside your pint, or want that sweet spot between modest and showy, the Three Compasses is probably the place for you.
Price: £5.50
Rating: 7.5/10
- Yucatan Bar, Stoke Newington
Don’t let the Mexican name fool you, this place is Irish through and through. There’s a heraldic scroll map of Ireland, a signed Shamrock Rovers jersey, and a copy of the 1916 Proclamation of the Irish Republic all hanging on the walls. Yucatan has that genuine feel of a local pub, with a mismatch of couches next to the pool table and lads coming down by themselves to make new friends watching the football.
Their pint of plain certainly hits the spot as well. With two of the fancy harp-shaped taps, they’re the first in the list to let it settle for the recommended two minutes. Creamier than the previous two pints, Yucatan is where the Guinness experience starts to feel a bit more special. However, I also had to deduct half a point because they committed the cardinal sin – a shamrock logo in the foam. A surprising choice at the most humble pub on the list.
Yucatan is the place to go for a no-frills, proper sports pub, with some of the most fascinating décor and a top notch Guinness.
Price: £5.20
Rating: 8/10
- Gibney’s, Shoreditch
Gibney’s is a must-go for any Guinness fan. The sister pub of their original Malahide location which opened in 1937 in the affluent Dublin suburb, it’s only with that kind of Irish publican heritage that you get the diligence required for such a beautiful pour. Situated in the City Road basement of upmarket restaurant Daffodil Mulligan’s, it’s not quite the “authentic Irish pub experience” it advertises, feeling more like a Roaring Twenties speakeasy bar than a traditional boozer. But as bar manager Cormac Gibney got big cheers and shoutouts from the live music act, there was a sense that he is something of a local legend.
Even though it was a packed Saturday night, the bartenders properly let the pint settle at the perfect height before starting the second pour. Gibney’s uses the old style tulip glass much loved amongst Guinness drinkers, and their kegs are the warmest of the bunch. The cream didn’t cloud the glass the way you’d hope, but it was a perfect temperature and went down far quicker than usual. Gibney’s does Guinness properly, and it isn’t to be missed.
If you prefer a better party atmosphere over traditional Irish vibes or don’t fancy venturing out to Stoke Newington, you might well prefer Gibney’s over the number one spot.
Price: £5.90
Rating: 9/10
- Auld Shillelagh, Stoke Newington
There really is no pub quite like the Auld Shill. Named “the most authentic Irish bar in the world outside Ireland” by the Irish Times, this cosy Stokey joint is a monument to the Isle of Erin. Walk too quickly down Stoke Newington Church Street and you might miss this slender watering hole.
Like Gibney’s, they also use a box-shaped tap with Guinness branding. It’s properly left to settle and is deadly creamy, and only here did I get a pint with that all-too-rare domed head. Because I got a colder pint, I can’t say it was streets ahead of Gibney’s in terms of taste. Wielding a new-style Guinness glass in such an iconic pub was also not what I was hoping for. For all the hype the Auld Shillelagh gets, its Guinness didn’t quite match up to the exceedingly high standards I’d hoped for.
outside pints
auld shillelagh, london pic.twitter.com/v2JBwLZzuJ
— beautiful pints (@beautifulpints) April 21, 2021
What makes it the must-visit above all is the unique aura of the place. The bar is lower down than any other pub I’ve been in, while every wall and even the ceiling is loaded with old posters, awards, rugby balls and hurling sticks. It’s the kind of place you picture when reading a James Joyce novel, with supremely creamy black gold to match.
Price: £5.50
Rating: 9/10
