Photo Credit: Oslo on Pinterest
Oslo, a new restaurant on the corner of Mare Street and Amhurst Road, is very Hackney, in the best sense of the word. From its quirky, quality Norwegian nibbles to its redeveloped railway station interior, everything about the Oslo eatery screams east London.
The menu pays just the right amount of attention to pretension – there’s nothing too poncy but nothing boring either. The Scandinavian dishes offer a range of fish, meat and potatoes à la Norvege. There’s also a lot of oxtail, if that’s something you’re into.
Of Oslo’s appetisers and sides, I recommend the fennel and kohlrabi salad. It comes slathered in a potent dressing of cranberry and liquorice, which tasted unlike anything I’ve ever had. I was also treated to a chef’s specialty specialty: mushrooms stuffed with chestnuts, shallots and Norwegian spices. This was even better. If the chef wants to make you one of his own creations – let him.
The mains were likewise full of flavour, from the eel-cod combo to the super-sized steak. The fish dish was terrific, the eel perfectly complemented by the neutral taste of cod. They both lay on a bed of crushed potatoes and a sauce that tasted like a Scandinavian guacamole.
Credit: Oslo on Pinterest
I imagine most patrons will choose the steak, but it comes with a warning, courtesy of Oslo’s staff. It’s giant, they warned. You can’t possibly finish it, they said. And yet, it was vanquished. I even took the bone home to my dog as a trophy. The meat – a perfect shade of pink – was wonderfully succulent, apparently because the chefs gave it a rest period after grilling wherein it retained its shape and taste. The celebration of beef, as they call it, is served with a small jug of bitter beer sauce – careful not to drown your steak in it.
That’s not to say that vegetarians are left out – the Blackened Squash and Marinated Field Mushroom, in particular, are highly recommended.
There’s also a great wine list, and some mouth-watering sweets – you have to try the chocolate tart mess. Oslo really is top drawer for unpretentious fine dining.
The restaurant’s pleasant ambience also adds to the experience – the jazzy tunes establish a laid back atmosphere that’s reinforced by a charming waiting staff who will happily explain how and why the food tastes the way that it does.
The decor is interesting and effective. Oslo was conceived as a bar-restaurant combo, and the use of space reflects that conceit. The bar layout towards the entrance gradually becomes the classy eatery at the back – a seamless transition. As for how it looks, the fabric lampshades are quite garish, standing out amongst the restaurant’s otherwise minimalist aesthetic, but it is Oslo’s small peculiarities that give it personality.
The convenience of Oslo’s prime location in the heart of Hackney (it’s right beside Hackney Central station) mean that both Londoners and locals will likely try the Norwegian cuisine. If they do, I have no doubt that the restaurant will be a huge success.
